How to Choose the Right Lash Style for Your Eye Shape

Lash mapping is more than a technique, it’s an art. And like any art form, understanding the canvas—in this case, your client’s eye shape—is essential. When you tailor lash maps to eye shape, you create balanced, customized lash sets that elevate your client’s natural beauty.

Below is your go-to guide on identifying common eye shapes and selecting lash styles that flatter them best. Remember that some clients have blended eye characteristics (for example, almond and close-set), so adjust your approach accordingly.

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🥜 Almond Eyes

Identifying Features: Slightly narrow at the corners and symmetrical, almond eyes resemble the shape of an actual almond. The iris touches both the top and bottom of the eyelid without much sclera showing.

Why They're Great: Universally flattering and highly versatile. They work well with most lash styles.

• Recommended Maps: Any style—Doll, Squirrel, Cateye, Wispy. Almond eyes are the most versatile shape.
• Why They’re Great: Universally flattering and highly versatile. They work well with most lash styles.

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👁️ Round or Protruding Eyes

Identifying Features: Large, open eyes where more of the white (sclera) is visible. Often have an arched upper lid and flatter lower lid.

Styling Goals: Soften the roundness and elongate the eyes horizontally.

• Recommended Maps: Doll or Natural to emphasize openness without over-dramatizing.
• Why They’re Great: Big, bright eyes can carry more density and curl, so volume fans pop beautifully.

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👀 Wide-Set Eyes

Identifying Features: Eyes are spaced further apart than average.

Styling Goals: Draw the eyes inward by focusing length toward the inner half.

• Recommended Maps: Open, Doll, or Natural with slightly longer lengths toward the inner two-thirds to create the illusion of closeness.
• Why They’re Great: Strategic mapping can balance the gaze without making eyes look farther apart.
  

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🔍 Close-Set Eyes

Identifying Features: The inner corners of the eyes are closer together, with less space between them than the width of one eye.

Styling Goals: Pull attention outward to give a more balanced appearance.

• Recommended Maps: Squirrel or Cateye with extended outer corners to elongate horizontally.
• Why They’re Great: Outer emphasis draws attention outward, adding symmetry.

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⬇️ Downturned Eyes

Identifying Features: Outer corners sit lower than inner corners, giving a downward slant.

Styling Goals: Add lift and redirect focus toward the center of the eye.

• Recommended Maps: Cateye or Dramatic lift—longer lengths from mid-lid out, stronger curl.
• Why They’re Great: Creates an instant eye-lift effect, boosting a youthful appearance.

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⬆️ Upturned Eyes

Identifying Features: Outer corners are higher than inner corners. This creates a natural lift.

Styling Goals: Enhance their natural, exotic tilt with elongated lash designs.

• Recommended Maps: Cateye, Natural, or Wispy—avoid overly dramatic upward flicks that exaggerate.
• Why They’re Great: Natural cat shapes accentuate their built-in lift without overdoing it.

Styling Tip for Upturned Eyes

Use a softer curl (C or D) on the outermost lashes so the eye doesn’t appear “too sharp.”

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🧱 Deep Set or Hooded Eyes

Identifying Features: The eyes are set deeper into the skull and often shadowed by the brow bone. Hooded eyes have extra skin folding over the crease.

Styling Goals: Open the eyes and bring them forward visually.

• Recommended Maps: Doll or Open Eye with strong curl (L, L+, or M) to project lashes beyond the hidden lid.
• Why They’re Great: Lifts lashes clear of the crease, giving a wider eye look.

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🔁 Monolid Eyes

Identifying Features: Lack of a defined crease with a smooth eyelid surface. Often associated with straight natural lashes.

Styling Goals: Add lift, visibility, and curve to lashes that may otherwise lay flat.

• Recommended Maps: Hybrid of Doll and Wispy with varied spikes for dimension.
• Why They’re Great: Creates vertical lift and depth on a naturally flat lid plane.

Final Thoughts

Eye shape analysis is the foundation of bespoke lash artistry. Master these mappings, and every set you create will celebrate what’s unique about your client—while ensuring perfect balance and wow-factor results.